What are the different types of riding boots?

Leather riding boots 
Leather riding boots are the most traditional design, all come in various designs and styles. Leather has various natural advantages that make them an attractive option for customers.  
Leather is both hardwearing and waterproof, and will last for a number of years if properly cared for. Use leather feed and oil along with wax shoe polish to keep your boots in top condition.  
Rubber riding boots 
Rubber boots are suited to riders on a budget, but do contain certain advantages. 
One of the main advantages of is that rubber is essentially weatherproof, as it does not crack or rot. The nature of rubber also mean that rubber riding waterproof safety boots are easy to clean. Simply use a damp cloth.  
Long riding boots 
Long ortallriding boots are the standard boots for adults in competitive competitions. Although they are all similar in their lengths there are a number of different styles.  
One of these varieties is the field boot, which is a long riding boot made from leather with lacing on the ankle. The lacing not only serves an aesthetic purpose, but also allows for a certain level of give in the boot. This particular design is often used in show jumping.  
The dress boot does not feature lacing and often features styling on the outside that serve to not only keep the leg in place, but also add a sens of style. This design is often used by dressage riders. A hunt boot shares many of these features, but also contains a cuff at the top usually coloured brown. 

Horse Blanket Measurement Tips

Use the right horse blanket measurement calculations to get the best fit for your horse. A poor fitting blanket won’t get the job done. It may be uncomfortable for your horse and could even cause minor injuries.

So get out your tailor’s measuring tape (available from fabric stores or the notions department of many grocery and general merchandise stores) and measure your horse!

What You’ll Need: Tailor’s measuring tape Paper & pen

1. Head for level ground. Be sure your horse is standing squarely. Tie him or have someone hold him.

2. Stand on his left. Locate the spot where his neck meets the center of his chest. Hold the measuring tape in your left hand and place it at that spot.

3. With your right hand, draw the tape along his left side as far as you can. It’s important to measure at the widest part of the shoulder for a roomy enough fit. Keep the tape level and taught or you’ll measure too large and the blanket will gap.

4. Your horse is probably longer than your reach, so when you’ve reached as far as you can, mark the spot with your right thumb and jot down the measurement. Move down to that spot and place the end of the measuring tape at this point.

5. Keep the tape level and straight and bring it across the point of his buttock (the hindmost point of the quarters, about 10 to 12 inches below the place where the tail meets the body). Stop at the edge of his tail. Write down this measurement.

6. Add your two measurements to get your horse’s blanket size. Stock blankets come in even sizes, from 30 (for foals) to 88 (for large horses). If you come out with an odd number, round up to the next even number.

Horse Barn Fires Can Be Prevented

Horse barn fires are a scary reality. What can you do to reduce your risk? A few simple precautions and an effective emergency plan will help mitigate risk, increase overall safety and let you sleep a little better at night.

Horse barn fires can spread very fast. Barns tend to be open, airy and filled with combustible materials so they burn easily and quickly.

Plan: Call your local fire department and ask them for any suggestions.

Think about how you might get a fire truck onto your property. The trucks will need turn around space and supportive ground, year round.

How accessible is your barn after dark? Have a clear map of the barn and property posted at a location well away from the barn.

Have a spot to secure your horses in the event of fire. Put this location on the barn map.
Where is you best water source? If you have a swimming pool or pond, that is your first water source. Mark it on the map, too.

Add lightning rods to your barn.

If possible, make sure all exterior doors open “out.” When people panic they usually don’t have the presence of mind to pull in on a door.

Place fire extinguishers at each entrance, in the feed and tack rooms. Make sure they’re charged and you know how to use them! They should be protected from freezing.

When using a fire extinguisher, remember PASS:

Pull the Pin at the top of the extinguisher. The pin releases a locking mechanism and will allow you to discharge the extinguisher.

Aim at the base of the fire, not the flames. This is important. In order to put out the fire, you must extinguish the fuel.

Squeeze the lever slowly. This will release the extinguishing agent in the extinguisher. If the handle is released, the discharge will stop.

Sweep from side to side. Using a sweeping motion, move the fire extinguisher back and forth until the fire is completely out. Operate the extinguisher from a safe distance, several feet away, and then move towards the fire once it starts to diminish. Be sure to read the instructions on your fire extinguisher. Remember: Aim at the base of the fire, not at the flames!

Install smoke alarms that can be heard inside your home.

Prepare: Develop an evacuation plan. Have adequate holding pens or an area where horses can be properly confined when removed during a horse barn fire. Loose horses are dangerous and may charge back into a burning barn.

Train your horses to deal with noise and bright flashing lights.
Leave horses haltered in their stalls or keep their halters and lead shanks hanging on stall doors so they are easily accessible in an emergency.

Prevent: Faulty electrical wiring and connections are one of the leading causes of barn fires. If you’re unsure when or if your electric was inspected, have a qualified electrician check the wiring.

Are the service boxes in a dry, dust free location and mounted on fire resistant materials? Are the electrical fixtures free of dust, dirt, cob webs, chaff, hay or combustible materials? Keep electrical appliances clean and dust free.

Never use extension cords or multiple plug strips in the barn. If extension cords must be used, buy industrial grade ones.

Disconnect all electrical appliances when not in use. Cage all electric light fixtures to prevent damage and put all electrical wires in metal conduit pipes to prevent chewing.

Keep your barn clean and free of dust, cobwebs, trash, oily tack cleaning rags, soiled paper towels and other easily ignited fire hazards.
Do not allow smoking in your barn.
Flammables such as gas and oil should be stored in a separate location.

Coat the wood in your barn with a fire-retardant paint or stain. Such products may reduce the rate of ignition of a fire and the flame spread. Buy one that is certified non-toxic to children and animals. These products may have to be reapplied on a regular basis to be effective.

Horse barn fires can be prevented if you follow these safety tips.

Horse Allergies

Sniffles? Sneezes? It’s Spring…and prime season for horse allergies! Yes, you AND your horse can suffer from allergies to mold and weeds.

Allergic Respiratory Disease is a common condition in horses. Horses will show flu-like symptoms including a recurrent cough, eye discharge and fatigue. Their lungs may become inflamed and they are more likely to get viral and bacterial infections.

There are many causes of Allergic Respiratory Disease but the most common culprits are mold spores and weeds found in hay or straw. It’s often a seasonal problem, more common in spring and summer. But if your stored hay is local, it may be a year round problem. And each year the symptoms could get worse as your horse’s reaction gets stronger and stronger.

What to do? Get your horse outside! Fresh air is always an improvement over stagnant, dusty air. Permanent pasture grazing is cost effective and convenient. For mild horse allergies, soaking the the hay will often help to reduce the number of spores in the environment.

If your horse must stay in the stall most or all of the time, try to store your hay in a separate place and provide adequate ventilation, away from manure piles. For bedding, avoid straw in favor of paper or shavings. Use a minimum of bedding and remove it daily. Rubber matting can reduce the amount of bedding needed.

If these simple steps don’t work, it’s time to talk to the vet. She can perform a simple procedure that looks at the fluid and cells in the horse’s lungs to determine the severity of the allergy. She can also do a blood test to determine what your horse is allergic to and customize a treatment for your horse’s allergies.

Allergic Respiratory Disease can be managed and treated. It’s a common problem and some very simple steps can dramatically improve the health of your horse.